Sun 16.Jun.2013
Split, Dalmatia, Croatia
As the coast highway winds southward from Šibenik, it offers heart-melting
vistas of the sky-blue Adriatic, shimmying in and out of the sinuous
coastline, and among the constellations of arid tan Dalmatian islands.
My foot had not yet touched the ground in Split, when I saw a middle-aged
man with a sign offering rooms in the center. "Just a moment," says I, "I have a bag."
When I had retrieved my pack from the bus' baggage compartment, we
established his price (within my budget), that a refrigerator would be
available (for my insulin), and that I would look at his room. Amazingly, about 85%
of our conversation stayed within the limits of my meager Croatian; he thought
at first that I know it much better than I do. chuckle
To my surprise, this was not an investment unit somewhere, as one so often
finds now, but an honest-to-goodness bedroom in his family's apartment, in a
rather colorful old neighborhood near the old city, but off the package tour
circuit.
Dazzling, kaleidoscopic Split, capital of Central Dalmatia, Roman Emperor
Diocletian's birthplace, more facets to it than I can describe in one post,
so let's hope I get a second one out before I leave.
Meanwhile, here is the arguably tardy first contribution.
It does no harm that Summer finally arrived the same day I did, slipping
into place as if nothing had ever happened, and all that long shivering
Spring was just an uncomfortable dream. We shall see in a week what
flood-stricken Bratislava has to say about that.
Hats in the open air market at the east corner of the palace.
Bead curtain doorway to some kind of shop - I think it was a hair salon -
inside the palace walls.
Palace?
This is the town to which (un-Holy) Roman Emperor Diocletian retired. His
brokedown palace encloses the heart of the old town and tourist district.
I've covered it in previous years' posts.
I've spent proportionately less time there this visit. I've been exploring
some new parts of the city, like the "beaches" west of the center. More on
those next post.
Make myself a bed by the waterside
Lest anybody get wistful over my luxurious life style, here is the entry
hall to my current lodgings, a private room in the three-generation home
apartment of a good-hearted local family.
Despite the peeling plaster in the public areas, the actual apartment is
clean and comfy, with all the mod cons, as they say.
Curiously, I've had the best rapport with the one who understands little if
any English - Grandma! I've been shy with the grown-ups, the teenager flat
out ignores me, but little ol' Grandma lit up when I said Pleased to
meet you in Croatian, and we've had fun charming each other ever
since. Hooda thunkit?
A clever fountain not far from "home". The fist-shaped spout sits high in a
wall that just might be medieval.
The jet leaps forth out of the thumb...
... and makes kind of a long shot. What is that that it is landing in?
A big old funnel!
Riva gonna take me, sing me sweet and sleepy.
Remember? Split is the city with the famous Riva, the seaside
promenade between the palace walls and the harbor.
'Tain't ancient, mind you. In Diocletian's time the water came right up to
the palace walls.
Ships docked at the south palace gate.
Yoiks! we're at the bottom of the page, and we've just gotten started!
See you all next post.