Fri 05.Dec.2009
Paleohora, Crete, Greece

Southward Panorama at Sunrise
looking along the coast to two ridges, silhouetted against dawn skysun rising behind narrow cloud over ocean
Dawn broke this morning with a calm sea and mostly clear sky. I thought that our big windy rainstorm of the last couple of days had past.

Here is big panning sequence from east to south to west.
building in rising sunlight on tip of small peninsulacurving bay, sunlit houses, hilltop ruin, dark clouds
Now, in the wee hours of the next morning, it looks like this lovely day was just the eye of the storm. The wind is back, if less of a gale, and the rain has poured intermittently this evening, more heavily than before.
restaurant sign, sunlit houses, dark cloudsbalcony roofs and walls, framing distant town
This waterfront was the first place I walked to when I got off the bus here. I met a nice young tourist man sitting on one of the benches, wondering what to do with a homeless baby puppy he had found howling in an alley. The li'l critter was sleeping, exhausted, in his lap.

At my request, Jake - his name - suggested a place to  find a cheap room - the very place I am now ensconced in. I met him again today, and thanked him. He still has the pup dog for now, though he'll have to find a local person to take it before he leaves mid-December. He is a kind person and - no big surprise - a Grateful Deadhead. We are still everywhere.

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More rising sun light on my little balcony.

Here it is reflected in my mirror through the sliding door.


Later that Afternoon
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I have decided to remian here in Paleohora for a second week. It is a relaxed town, accomodation is cheap - I am saving ten euro per day over (or under) staying in Hania - and packing up and moving every week is getting old. Soon I'll call the owner in Rhodes of the cheap monthly rooms in a good location in the old town, and spend my last month there before returning to California in late January. (Doctors' orders - they want to scan me again.)

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If you look real closely at the horizon a bit left of the boat, you can just discern the outline of the island of Gavdhos, where tourism is said to be in its infancy still. I may visit there next time I am in this part of Crete.

You see, I met another ex-pat here, a painter (art, not houses).

Back up. It is usual and customary in small Greek towns for people passing each other on the street to greet each other, rather than maintain awkward silence. The usual greeting is yassas (or yassou if you are on first-name terms) , the equivalent of ciao or aloha. (Literally "Health to you.")

So I yassas this chunky middle-aged woman in a costume that looked kind of like a gypsy. She replies, Wie geht's? Says I, Danke, gut. Und Ihnen?. I can slip into German easier than keeping up in Greek, and she did use it on me first. Over a couple of days I met this woman again, and learned she is Prussian by ethnicity, German by citizenship, and living here in Crete as an artist. She is accompanying a friend to Stuttgart now for reasons I forget. "Next time you are here", she says, "ask for me on Gavdhos". A colorful local character - outgoing, amiable; why not?
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A rocky pool at the edge of the ocean.

A temporary pool on the edge of the street.


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