Wed 25.Nov.2009
Haniá, Crete, Greece
On the Bus
Cretan coastline through bus window.milkshake in a tall beer glass
Much of Crete's north coast between Iraklio and Hania (hahn-YAH) is lightly developed if at all.

Yow! I just got served a banana milkshake in one the more improbable presentations I've encountered. A tall beer glass, a pink flex-straw and a 75-cm green straight straw. Aw foo - here's a photo of it. I had to put it way at the far side of the table to get the green straw in the field of view.

passageway to courtyard. stairs going off to rightlooking up open-air staircase
This cheerful Venetian alley leads to a Chinese restaurant called Suki Yaki. Evidently the distinction between Japan and China doesn't get a lot emphasis in the tourist quarter.

Notice those stairs with the Rooms for Rent sign? Yup - that's me. My actual front door is out of sight to the left, but those are  my windows hanging open up there past the bougainvilla.

several umbrella-covered outdoor cafes, glimpse of watercurving waterfront seen between cafe chairs and umbrellas
As a tourist, you could pretty much ignore the fact that most of Hania is a modern town. The old town around the small Venetian harbor is the tourist quarter now. From the amount of English on the signs, the place is probably swamped with Brits in the Summer.
tumblle of buildings, one with a blue-painted archwaywomen in wicker chairs, and chihuahua
Back from the waterfront, inside the old walls, is a delightful warren of Venetian streets, chock full of "Rooms for rent" signs (many closed for the Winter) and tourist shops and eateries. Right now, only the eateries along the waterfront are open, and not all of those. And some Tabernas and Gyros fast food places on the main street.
long-haired cat napping on a Venetian roadside shrinesmall de-comissioned mosque, oud-player at corner
The de-commissioned Mosque of the Janissaries is now a gallery of some sort. I haven't been inside yet. Old-time photos of the mosque show a minaret that is not there now. Maybe de-commissioning included removing it?

I gave a euro to the street musician who is playing the oud over there at the corner of the mosque. The very first oud I have seen in Greece, to say nothing of somebody actually playing it. Street music here, such as it is, is dominated by Greek bouzoukis and Gypsy accordians. We Deadheads know the oud thanks to Mickey Hart and his friendship with Hamza El Din, the great Nubian oud-master who used to sit in with The Boyz when we were lucky.
small sailboat mooredwobbly reflection of sailboat
small fort across harbor, framed by archwaydistant lighthouse, framed obliquely by arch
Cafe Society
silhouettes of cafe chairs against harborpinkish clouds across harbor from upstairs cafe balcony
These silhouetted chairs belong to my regular hangout here: Gallini's cafe, with an excellent wireless connection and a harbor view. At this moment I'm facing away from the harbor to watch the Tom and Jerry cartoons (good ones - classics) on the monitor. Kind of a surprise for a place that looks so upscale.
outdoor cafe at night with gas-jet warmers Gas flame aoutdoor space warmer
At home, outdoor cafe terraces use electric space warmers on colder nights. Here they go for these flamboyant (so to speak) gas-jet versions.

sunlit wooden tale with plant, drink and elbow
On warm days, no warmers are needed.


That is it for the moment from the western end of Crete. The weather has turned cloudy and colder. Probably thinking about rain. I'm sure they can use it.

Hasta la proxima!
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