Mon 03.Aug.2020
California
Imagery - Dubrovnik, Croatia 2008
In my youth in the 1950s, I often read the popular San Francisco newspaper
columnist Herb Caen. He was a witty observer, and an unflagging booster of "Bagdad
By The Bay", i.e. San Francisco, the world's greatest city, etc.
When Mr Caen was on vacation one year,
his column kept appearing, datelined wherever he was at the moment, describing
his travels. (Vastly more professionally than I am doing in these pages.)
Imagine my surprise, when "Mister San Francisco" said right there in print,
"I am in the most beautiful city I have ever seen!", or words to that effect.
I had never heard of Dubrovnik before, but I never forgot
that name!
Dubrovnik's ferry harbor is in a pleasant suburban district on a
small bay north of town.
I arrived here on a cool, bright morning in early December,
on the overnight ferry from Italy.
The heart of the old city - the street / square in front of the old Rector's
Palace.
The 'burbs continue aouthward along the coast through a popular seaside
vacation district.
That looks like cafe tables in winter storage. is that ledge the actual
cafe in Summer?
One cool cat, perched on a cool window seat!
From the Wall Tops
The old city walls are a major attraction. You can walk the full
circuit of them, with spectacular views of the fortifications,
the nearby towns, the city itself,
and the beautiful coast. A fine afternoon's entrtainment!
Two Views from the Walls
Fort Lovrijenac, commanding the entrance to Pile (PEE-leh) Harbor on the
west side of the old city.
The fort's seaward walls are up to 12 m thick. By contrast, the walls facing the
city are only 60 cm thick, so that if an enemy should somehow capture the fort,
they and it could be demolished by cannon from Fort Bokar, the bastion in the
city walls across the little harbor.
Pile Harbor itself.
The old city from the east, across the old harbor.
The main square at night. See the Christmas tree? Did I mention this was
December?
A little niche on the seaward face of the walls. Those flat areas look
well-tended - I imagine something goes on out here in the active season. In
December, it is a quiet little hideaway beyond the world.
A cold night, driving rain, alone in the old city. The wind moaning -
nothing should be open. But... I hear warm live music coming from somewhere!
I followed the
sound to a shoebox-sized bar on the corner of a square. I peeked in the window,
and the bartender-waitress beckoned me in - yes they were open! There were even
about four customers. And good(!) old-style jazz music. Marko the bass player
owned the bar. Frankie (guitar) and Brian (sax) keep the music up.
In Summer, they get big name acts from all over, and the bar spills out
across the square.
Warm spirit on a cold night!
"In the strangest of places ..."!