Sat 30.Jul.2011
Bratislava, Slovakia

The sun broke through for most of an afternoon two days ago, so it was down to the riverbank mall, to spend an hour or two with a cappucino and my new Vargas Llosa novel.
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Vienna Again
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The Bird Man of Neubau district stood in a small square, overlooking a young couple on the bench beneath him.


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Vienna centers around different places for different people. For many tourists, that center is inside The Ring - the old imperial palace perhaps, or the bustling square and street around St Stephen's Cathedral and the incredible plague column. Some look for it in the much-hyped "shopping street" of KaerntnerStrasse, where international chains rub elbows: Tommy Hilfiger, Burger King, Louis Vuitton, they are all there. As a result, there is little difference between Kaertnerstrasse and a mall in Omaha or a duty-free airport lounge, and it is all Overpriced Stuff That You Don't Really Need.

For me, the central axis of Vienna is Mariahilferstrasse (a mouthful, no?) . This street runs the two or three miles from The Ring to the West Station, and bustles with actual people doing real daily shopping for stuff they actually need. Diabetic supplies? A good Slovak dictionary? This week's Economist? The use of a USB DVD deck so your deckless (so to speak) netbook 'puter can read a CD? Real Turkish ayran to drink on a hot afternoon? Mariahilferstrasse is the Diagon Alley of muggle Vienna. Even the down home barber who cut my hair yesterday is near it.



Evening in Bratislava
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Two points for decoding this familiar word in a furrin' spelling.


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